Tank Tops and Pony Tails

Does a 10 mile strip of pristine tropical beach sound like paradise to you? A place where pelicans surf the crests of waves and dolphins pop up to say “hola”. Where the Pacific gently laps up to caress the palm lined shore.  As far a you can see, no signs of humanity, there are no other footprints. We believe we have found such paradise, but it not easy to get to


 Tropical Paradise

 There is no airport nearby and the road is long and unpaved. The peninsula is barely on the map and certainly not in any brochure. There are not stop lights or stop signs. For that matter there are not even an intersection, just one road in and the same road out. The fact that it is mostly undiscovered, is the genesis of what makes it so enchanting and why Playa Zancudo has earned its reputation as “The Home of the Wanted and the Unwanted”.

Home of the Wanted and the Unwanted

Zancudo Hwy 1

You will find such paradise in Costa Rica, just north of the Panama boarder, engulfed in nature as you would expect.  Four different types of monkeys prowl the jungle while a multitude of tropical birds fill the tree tops and the sky. The flora and fauna is mind blowing.

And then, there are the expats that have chosen this end of the road as their address.  Politics and pandemics are left far, far behind, laid-back is the word of the day, everyday  They come from up north, mostly Canada and the US, and they adapt to the sizzling climate by finding a tropical rhyme.  Last names are not required and seldom asked for, it is just better that way.

The apex of activity is an open air bar/ restaurant with a full on view of  Golfo Dulce. The  bar owners are originally from California and do a stellar job of making newcomers feel at home.  Certainly, tank tops and pony tails are the the preferred fashion here, and for the ladies flowing tie-die is always in season!  There are 3 cabins for rent but “high season” has a very short lifespan, so a local can almost always get a stool at the bar.

 It seems that people can be more genuine with out the usual trappings. No one here is judging, you are free to be yourself.  Social status and stock portfolios mean little and a flash wardrobe and fancy car would be totally absurd. There is no hierarchy.

Residents have intriguing stories of how they landed on the peninsula and where else they wandered before they put down anchor . Several Costa Rican families have lived here for generations and seem to co-exist well with these newcomers. Pura Vida !!

Johanne and I have lived in many different towns and villages around the world, but we find the vibe at this “end of the road” community contagious. It is on our short list of places to spend more time in.

  Time for my swim. Ciao.

joyful travellers

Where To Stay:

  • Sol y Mar – cabinas on the beach, with restaurant and bar
  • Zancudo West – very nice property and owners, great for kayaking

What To Do:

I you are looking for a place with an extensive activity list, then Playa Zancudo is probably not for you.