Sacred Ground at the End of the Earth

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

 Sacred Ground at the End of the Earth

The Romans called it the Promontorium Sacrum – Sacred Ground. They believed it was where the world ended, because in their time it was exactly that. Beyond the horizon there was nothing, just endless uncertainty. People believed it was where the sun set sizzling into the ocean. It possessed great magical significance to the Romans, the Greeks and to the many civilizations that arrived after them.

Few places on the globe hold a greater geographical and historical importance than  Cabo de Sao Vincente the most  South Western corner of Portugal. 

It juts out into the Atlantic like a stubbed toe and has been a major maritime landfall for sailors for centuries. It would be the last land  that  Vasco De Gama, Christopher Columbus and so many brave explores would see as they  ventured into the unknown. They would come ashore here, scale the cliffs and pray for a safe return. Pray hard I would imagine. After all the world is flat, there are sea monsters and demons.

A visitor, not aware of the geopolitical  significance of this place, would none the less be absolutely mind-blown by the shear natural beauty on display. It is magnificant in it’s raw grandeur. It is  incredibly rocky and barren, yet at the same time lush with exotic vegetation from Europe,  Africa and the Mediterranean. Rich golden beaches lie on either side of the promontory and add to the wow factor.

On a crystal clear day in September, the soft sky melts into deep blue of the Atlantic horizon, in turn the mighty ocean crashes relentlessly on stoic cliffs that are 200 feet high.

It is a vista so vast that I found it difficult to process. Standing there basking in this wonderment leaves a mortal rather humbled.

Dozens of species of birds gather here in the fall as they gauge the winds that will wing them south to Africa. And the winds can be fierce,  for this is open ocean. 

The east coast of the new world is 3,600 miles off;  Rio De Janeiro is some 4,700 miles. Try to imagine tiny wooden caravels no more than 60 feet long jammed to the rails with crew and rations heading out to lands unknown. 

A fair wind would send them on their way, while a ferocious northerly could easily send a sailor to the bottom with haste. At least 9 major maritime battles were fought in these waters with Horatio Nelson and Sir Francis Drake getting in on the action.

In the 1400’s tiny Portugal lead the world in the Age of Discovery opening trade routes to Africa, South America, and India. Their fearless adventurers changed the way people the world was understood. Prince Henry the Navigator is believed to be the forefather of modern navigation and it is said that he had a school of study on Cabo de Sao Vincente in the 1400’s. By melding the wisdom of seafarers,  cartographers, scientists, and astronomers the Portuguese we able to understand the turns of the sea and take full advantage of their geographical location.

Today the navigational light at Sagres shines some 60 Km out over the ocean guiding sailors back to this Sacred Ground, their prayers of a safe journey filled.

 

    P.S.

          We must learn to travel safe and never give up the dream!

From Globe-Trotter to Basement Dweller

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

 

From Globe-Trotter to Basement Dweller – How COVID clipped our wings.

The other day I was trying to find words to convey to a friend what it feels like to go from world globe trotter to basement dweller in just a few short months. Like a ship without a rudder I was feeling adrift and without steerage. My friend nailed it when she said “I had lost my purpose”.

Exactly, I am out in the world without purpose, adrift. That brought up a very interesting point that I hadn’t really internalized before. Over the past four years, house and pet sitting has indeed been my purpose and a noble one at that.

I have always savored that sense of fulfillment that comes when a homeowner shows their gratitude for the care that you have given their home and pets. It was like a bonus to me but maybe, subliminally, it is much more than that. It is the expression of my purpose. A job well done!

The last four years have been an absolute blast. Johanne and I, have traveled the globe living in places we could not have dreamed of. We have cared for restored mansions in Mexico, alpaca farms in New Zealand, and organic coco estate in Panama. We have lived remotely on gorgeous Caribbean Islands and on breathtaking beaches in Ecuador. For the most part, our house-sit gigs have been booked back-to-back with a few days of adventure travel thrown in for good measure.

But of all the amazing homes and properties that Johanne and I have experienced, we sit here in the basement feeling at a loss for all of the beautiful animals that we have cared for. So that again affirms that house-sitting truly is a purpose for us. A menagerie of over eighty dogs, sixty cats, donkeys, sheep, cattle, various fowl and turtles have benefited from our love and attention while their owners enjoyed a carefree vacation. Pretty good eh?

Before the news of a global shut-down engulfed us, we were looking forward to twelve more months of fully booked sits. Eight fabulous back-to-back sits began to unravel, we went from Plan B to Plan C, D, and then E. By now we are on Plan K or something like that. Johanne is spending almost as much time working on airfare cancellations and refunds as she did in organizing it all in the first place.

Like many of you, we are truly nomadic in that we have no home to go back to. The uncertainty that arises from being homeless in these times could easily keep a person lying awake at night.

However, another dear friend and house sitter (house sitters have the best wisdom) shared a paradigm shift that has really helped. She told us that “uncertainty” is easier to manage if you exchange it for the word “wonder”. I love that bit of wisdom and have tried to incorporate it into our vocabulary. So rather than fretting about the uncertainty that comes with closed borders and canceled flights we prefer to just be in wonder of where we will end up.

We hope to have at least another four more years with house-sitting as our main purpose but for now, we can only wonder what that might look like!!

Wishing you all the best in living your purpose and wondering where we will meet up down the road.

                                                    joyfultravellers

Rainbow Truth

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

 

 

Rainbow Truth

Can you imagine my dissonance last week during trivia when one of the truisms of my life was shattered? The question was: Which Falls at Niagara is referred to as the Rainbow Falls? I got the answer wrong!!@ Not getting that point bankrupted my wisdom bank and shook my understanding of what is real in the world. 

Now I am not claiming to be a scholar of world geography, however, you must know that Niagara  Falls is my Hometown – yup, born and raised there.  If fact as a kid I used to play in the gorge alongside where the great cascades tumbled, beneath the very Rainbows in question.  Actually, we lived so close that I could hear the Falls roar as I lay in bed at night dreaming of Rainbows.

Certainly, any local person would answer the question as I did:  the Horseshoe Falls are known as the Rainbow Falls.  Just ask any enlightened tour operator, bar fly or school kid for that matter,  the Rainbows come from under the Horseshoe. Even in the Iroquois legends.

So what does Mr. Goggle say? Well actually, the is no reference to Rainbow Falls in Niagara on the internet. We have Rainbow Towers, the Rainbow Bridge, the Rainbow Bar and Grill and even Rainbow Dairies (great ice cream for kids). There are pages of stunning photos showing Rainbows gracing the Horseshoe/Canadian Falls but exactly zero on the American side.

Fake American Rainbow

Officially the is no Rainbow Falls at Niagara, so I contend that we must defer to the local lore for the truth.  Give me that extra point, and my confidence in my childhood memories can remain intact.

Photo was taken on September 11, 2001, in the Niagara Gorge.

Thank you for caring!

Tank Tops and Pony Tails

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

Tank Tops and Pony Tails

Does a 10 mile strip of pristine tropical beach sound like paradise to you? A place where pelicans surf the crests of waves and dolphins pop up to say “hola”. Where the Pacific gently laps up to caress the palm lined shore.  As far a you can see, no signs of humanity, there are no other footprints. We believe we have found such paradise, but it not easy to get to


 Tropical Paradise

 There is no airport nearby and the road is long and unpaved. The peninsula is barely on the map and certainly not in any brochure. There are not stop lights or stop signs. For that matter there are not even an intersection, just one road in and the same road out. The fact that it is mostly undiscovered, is the genesis of what makes it so enchanting and why Playa Zancudo has earned its reputation as “The Home of the Wanted and the Unwanted”.

Home of the Wanted and the Unwanted

Zancudo Hwy 1

You will find such paradise in Costa Rica, just north of the Panama boarder, engulfed in nature as you would expect.  Four different types of monkeys prowl the jungle while a multitude of tropical birds fill the tree tops and the sky. The flora and fauna is mind blowing.

And then, there are the expats that have chosen this end of the road as their address.  Politics and pandemics are left far, far behind, laid-back is the word of the day, everyday  They come from up north, mostly Canada and the US, and they adapt to the sizzling climate by finding a tropical rhyme.  Last names are not required and seldom asked for, it is just better that way.

The apex of activity is an open air bar/ restaurant with a full on view of  Golfo Dulce. The  bar owners are originally from California and do a stellar job of making newcomers feel at home.  Certainly, tank tops and pony tails are the the preferred fashion here, and for the ladies flowing tie-die is always in season!  There are 3 cabins for rent but “high season” has a very short lifespan, so a local can almost always get a stool at the bar.

 It seems that people can be more genuine with out the usual trappings. No one here is judging, you are free to be yourself.  Social status and stock portfolios mean little and a flash wardrobe and fancy car would be totally absurd. There is no hierarchy.

Residents have intriguing stories of how they landed on the peninsula and where else they wandered before they put down anchor . Several Costa Rican families have lived here for generations and seem to co-exist well with these newcomers. Pura Vida !!

Johanne and I have lived in many different towns and villages around the world, but we find the vibe at this “end of the road” community contagious. It is on our short list of places to spend more time in.

  Time for my swim. Ciao.

joyful travellers

Where To Stay:

  • Sol y Mar – cabinas on the beach, with restaurant and bar
  • Zancudo West – very nice property and owners, great for kayaking

What To Do:

I you are looking for a place with an extensive activity list, then Playa Zancudo is probably not for you.

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Unplugged ‘n Travelin’

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

Becoming Unplugged

Is it possible to see the world without a cell phone in your grips? The answer is, absolutely! Johanne and I have been doing exactly that full time for 4 years and our experiences are likely different than most travellers.

When we travel to places where there are lot’s of tourist, which isn’t often,  it is abundantly clear that the majority of travellers are shuffling around with their attention fixed solidly on their little “devices”. Whatever consumes their attention is unclear to me, but it is pretty obvious they are not particularly interested in experiencing where they are. Travelling the world with their heads down.

It seems that for many travellers, their first concern is where to get a SIM card?  The addiction of being perpetually connected is real. We love being un-tethered!

“Travel releases spontaneity”

Francis Mayes

Seeing the World Unplugged:

There are many different motives people have for travelling. I guess we have been doing it long enough that our motivation is different than most. I am really not too interested in having my picture taken in front of the Eiffel Tower (never actually been there).

I want to see how life unfolds for people that inhabit this planet. I want to hear their language, sample their food, see how they interact, listen to their music. Johanne and I also love to get out into the natural world and see the marvels of the jungle fist hand.

So TripAdvisor* really isn’t our thing. We are happy to make our own discoveries, not just follow along on some else’s vacation.

This might happen to you:

 

 

Recently we we in a very small village in Mexico and slightly bored. Suddenly Johanne said “I hear music”, so we head out to the street and follow the lively sounds. A procession was forming, it was the day that marked the village’s Patron Saint Sebastian. The band was getting warmed up with horns and drums, a great tuba bellowed out. Food was being shared around and everyone was in the mood. We followed the parade as it meandered through the streets ending up on the steps of the cathedral. The inside of the church was the most amazing display of flowers we have ever seen. It was awash floor to ceiling in brilliant colours and aromas. By now most of the town had gathered and Mass began. We sat outside and watched the comings and goings of the community. At the end of the service 4 dancers appeared in full Aztec regalia and marched straight into the church. The ritual that proceed was unworldly! The church was full of smoke, it was bathed in a dark red haze,the drums thundered and feathered plumes waved about. The dancers we entranced. The mysterious, magical ceremony being  performed, dated back maybe 500 years. Best of all we had front row seats and were the only non locals there! This is what unplugged can get you.

Where we stay:

Our youth hostel days are well behind us. Old bones require a certain level of comfort  so we do pre-book our accommodation. We will ask like-minded friends for their tips but mostly we rely booking.com which has worked well so far.

When we get there:

We love to wander around, get a feel for the place. Find those colourful alleys.

  • ask at the hotel if there are unsafe areas
  • make sure you have the name and address of your hotel clearly written down
  • pick out landmarks, usually the church or cathedral  is the center of town, make it your benchmark
  • listen for music, see where local people hang out, be brave
  • find a park bench allow things to happen as they will
  • search out the local market, because that is where life unfolds – sample everything
  • a great nomadic friend of ours says “ask for forgiveness not permission” sometimes we just walk in like we own the place!

(Some places are just impossible for wandering, Fez comes to mind, get a guide, we did).

“I am a big believer in winging it. You are never going to find a perfect city travel experience or a perfect meal without constant willingness to experience a bad one”

                 Anthony Bourdain

Where we eat:

One of our greatest joys of travelling is experiencing local cuisine. Many of our best memories evolve around a unique meal that we discovered.

Tips to finding a great restaurant:

If you are in the main square of a city or town and you see a place that is full of tourist, that ain’t it! It will likely have an America style menu and will be grossly overpriced. (likely well rated on TP).

Start walking, the further you get from el centro the better. Find the places that are busy with local people and don’t be shy.

Follow your nose, point and ask questions, a few words of the local language always helps.

The Benefits:

  • you will support local businesses that might not otherwise get much
  • you can save a lot of money
  • you will awaken your sense of adventure
  • you will exercise your sense of awareness (eyes wide open)
  • you will create your own memories and you can share them with others
  • self discovery can be so rewarding

Could you do this?:

So is being unplugged without constant connectivity for everyone? Certainly not, but maybe it is worth a try now and then.  Find out what unfolds when you just let it.

For a new experience try turning off  Tripadvisor, leave your device at home!

Take your smile with you and go find your own gems.

Resources:

Where to Stay Travelers by Travalers

*What is Wrong with TripAdvisor?

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Rotary

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

I am very fortunate to be involved in one of world’s most respected service organizations while still leading a nomadic life.

Many of you may have heard of Rotary and its’ global network.

With 1.2 million members and 35,000 clubs worldwide  it’s impact is significant. Rotarians have been making lasting change in the world for 110 years.

Rotary International’s focus is to:

  • Promote peace
  • Fight disease
  • Provide clean water, sanitation, and hygiene
  • Save mothers and children
  • Support education
  • Grow local economies

Traditionally being a Rotarian meant local fundraisers and going to weekly meetings over lunch. Sensing a need for change, Rotary International came up with the concept of “e  clubs”.  E clubs allow members to meet totally online at their convenience.

I am a charter member of the first e club in Canada, which has been a wonderful experience for me. It allows me to stay connected with my network online and at the same time gives me the opportunity to visit traditional clubs as a visiting Rotarian wherever I go. It is a simple as attending a weekly meeting online.  We call it Rotary on Demand.

I am proud to say that my club in 5 years has provided significant support to:

  • library projects in native communities in Canada’s far north
  • an after school program in Antigua, Guatemala
  • a major school project in  Colima, Mexico

It is most rewarding to see the impact that we as a club can have.

If you are into networking and are looking for a way to contribute to the better good, I can think of no better way than a  Rotary e club. It is very easy to stay connected and fits my wandering agenda perfectly.

If you would like to know about how to get involved, just drop me a line.

 

Doug Dyer

 

To Learn More

The Magic Bean

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

The Magic Bean

I have a particular love for the beautiful beverage that is brewed from the beans of coffea arabica plant.  I call it my morning ritual, Johanne calls it an addiction!!

Call it what you will, it is a proven fact my days flow much more smoothly once 14 ounces of this beautiful golden elixir is ingested.

Coffee country, Atenas, Costa Rica

There is so much written about coffee: it’s history, it’s magic and it’s dark side. I feel that I have the authority to add my 2 worth cents as a connoisseur and someone who is enjoying a cup at this very moment.

  • Here are a few quick facts to get us started*:
  • it isn’t really a bean at all but a pit, sort of like a cherry
  • it takes 140 liters of water to produce and process just one cup of coffee
  • coffee is the second most traded commodity in the world after oil.
  • Finland is by far the worlds largest consumers of coffee at 12 kgs per year. More than twice as much as Canada at #10
  • Brazil is the largest producer followed by one of our favourite countries Vietnam (more on this later).

*just google it

The Pits

For me, coffee is as much about the experience than just the simple consumption of a beverage. Where you are and who you are enjoying it with can take an average cup of brew and make it exquisite. Conversely a finely crafted product gulped down from a  styro foam cup in rush hour is a total waste. Good coffee deserves to be savored, it takes time and mindfulness.

The Coffee Experience

My two most memorable cups of coffee are:

  1. In a one-table cafe over looking Lake Atitlan, Guatemala. The owner of the shop told us that the beans were from his finca, the roaster was in the cafe and he had even home-built the expresso machine used to create his craft.

2. Sitting in the main square in Eguisheim which is rated as one of the prettiest towns in  France. The setting was just so perfect and the moment was divine.

The Ritual

For Johanne and I, we always look for a special place where we take time in the morning and share a quiet moment and a cup of the best local coffee available. We are fortunate to have fond memories of coffees enjoyed in magic places around the globe. Life is good!

The Vietnamese Way

We were surprised to find that the coffee culture in Vietnam is completely off the charts! I think it comes from the French occupation year. They have more ways of preparing and serving coffee than I could ever describe. Most it is thick, black and exotic. A rich syrupy blend mixed with sweet milk. Sort of like Crack in a Cup!

 

DSC05302

Flavour

Much can be said about the quality of the product, where is it grown, how it is roasted,  how it is brewed and who your barista is. However the one factor that has the largest impact on flavour is freshness. Coffee beans will hold their flavour for months maybe years, but once they are ground they begin to deteriorate quickly. Buying artisan, shade grown coffee should ensure a better quality of bean. So find a roast you like, buy the whole beans (pits) and grind them as needed.

Pairing

At the moment I am pairing my morning coffee with a wonderful cinnamon bun which is heavenly. The treat was locally made and delicious.

I also highly recommend a little piece of raw cacao to melt in your mouth,

The Dark Side of Coffee

Coffee is a LUXURY ITEM. It provides no nutrients or food value, yet it gulps up huge resources in land and water that could be better used feeding the planet. A poor under privileged work force labours so that the elite can enjoy their indulgence. Multi national corporations get rich on our addiction. Profit margins are huge and it is estimated that the farmer receives about  1 cent on that grande you just ordered. Massed produced coffee comes from huge plantations where natural rain forest has been sacrificed for you and me. Volume is the goal not quality.

Try and buy more artisan brands. Search out coffees that come from small growers. It will be a better product and maybe slightly kinder for the planet.

Now that I have completely depressed you with the dark news, I think I will go have a cup of shade grown medium roast from Costa Rica. I bought it directly from the farmer pictured above.

 

Just remember:

 

Send us your coffee stories and we will share them here.

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Vietnam-So Much to Love.

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

Vietnam is a mood. It is a mood of wonderment, curiosity, optimism, and welcoming.

Down one street it will appear ancient, and around the next corner, ultra-modern. Its cities drone on endlessly and the silence of the countryside can be absolutely deafening.

It has immerged from a tragic, horrific past, thrust upon it by foreign invaders. Somehow the people manage to look to the future, not the past. They forgive and they open their arms to visitors. Happiness cannot be found in remembering the wars.

Having spent a little over 2 weeks in Vietnam we both agreed that it would be worthy of a return visit someday.

Two of our favourite places were: Hoi An and Tam Coc. We had the luxury of travelling in the low season so crowds were not an issue. The downside of our timing was that we had to work around heavy downpours that came several times a day. Hoi An, with its myriad of lanterns and Tam Coc, with endless limestone caves, is so difficult to capture in words and photos. I can only recommend a visit.

Surprisingly, we also really enjoyed the Old Quarter of Hanoi. It is funky, upbeat, intriguing and of course hectic.

They close off to all traffic, a very large area around the lake on weekends. It makes for a wonderful green playground for families during the day. At night a carnival atmosphere takes over with food vendors, street performers, and people just out having fun. I wish more cities understood the value of doing this.

Our Favourite Accommodations

Did I mention coffee? This country is COFFEE CRAZY, which is good for me. You are never more than a few steps away from a strong rich local coffee: brewed, blended, dripped, infused or iced. Served with milk, sweet milk, coconut, and even a beaten raw egg! No market for Starbucks here! I tried to keep my intake to under 3 a day.

Yes, Johanne and I both said we would love to return and without a doubt, the real reason for this is the Vietnamese people. As travellers we are always aware of how we are accepted and made to feel welcomed where we are. In travel, it always seems to come down to the people.

The people of Vietnam have a genuine caring about them; they sincerely want you to feel joy while you are visiting. I sense that it a traditional trait, not just something that they put on because they are getting paid. So often people would go out of their way to make sure that we had more than what we needed to enjoy our stay.

We stayed 2 nights in a family hotel/homestay in Tam Coc. The hospitality was lovely and not put on. When we checked out, we felt like we were saying goodbye to family.  They want you to come back. (Do consider homestays when you visit, they introduce you to everyday people and at the same time provide the privacy that we are comfortable with.)

So yes, Vietnam has many moods and all of them inviting. So much to love!

    No Starbucks here!

Kiwi – Impressions

Posted on By dougdyer52@gmail.com

A CANADIAN’S FIRST VISIT TO NEW ZEALAND

Having spent five wonderful months travelling throughout New Zealand, I wanted to share some of my impressions. Little things that are so charming:

***A most amazing fact you may not have heard of: every resident AND visitor to New Zealand is covered for Accident Compensation Coverage (ACC). All your medical care, including emergency transportation and dental, is FREE if resulting from ANY accident. Even a dog bite! No suing allowed; it’s all “No-Fault”. However, you still need your own travel insurance to be covered for illnesses.

***The roads are in good shape but the speed limit is TOO generous. There is no safe way to drive 100km/h on steep and narrow windy roads. Sadly, New Zealand has a very high rate of road fatalities. Many roadways have NO shoulder. Quaintly, you will encounter numerous of one-lane bridges.  Fortunately, NZ provides you with ACC! 

***New Zealanders love their round-about (circles at road intersections). You will find very few stop lights. When you get the hang of it, you will love them, as they help with the flow of traffic. They save time and fuel consumption.

***If you travel by air, you will find FREE clean showers in ALL airports. If you travel by car, there are FREE very clean bathrooms throughout the country, with safe pull outs. 

***The National Parks are FREE, including parking. In addition, you can find public access to all the beaches with ample free day parking. Dogs are allowed to run off leash on the beach and in many neighborhood parks. 

***Although dogs are not allowed in protected areas such as National Parks, New Zealand provides them with beautiful Dog Parks. Some, complete with rivers, lakes, agility courses, and all are securely fenced.

***Dogs also have their own DOG WASH station; usually adjacent to the Car Wash. Everything is clean and secure. For a very reasonable fee, you turn a knob to pick the services you want: wash, shampoo, rinse, conditioner, dryer, etc… Both dogs and their owners love it! 

***Still on the subject of dogs, the larger shopping areas provide a DOG PARKING station. You will find, adjacent to the store entrance, a shaded roofed area with clips to secure your dog.  Fresh water, and chew toys are provided. This is SO Kiwi!

***New Zealand is a bicycle friendly country. I saw free repair stations in busy areas like beach roads and parks. Here you can suspend your bike to work on it. All essential tools are provided, even free air. 

***The police officers are mostly UN-ARMED. It is a civilized peaceful country. You can feel it.

***The city public areas, like boardwalks, cafes and restaurants, have FREE areas where all are welcome to take a break. You may opt to sun-bathe on comfy lawn chairs provided. You are invited to eat your own bagged-lunch at a picnic table in front of a restaurant. You can pull a book off the shelf and find a bean bag to relax on, in the town square. 

***New Zealand had the most HIGH-VIZ vests I have ever encountered. It is high fashion for all public and private workers, cyclists, etc.  Even if you are working in your own yard, you better slip one on!

***In several towns, it is common for residents of ALL ages to walk around BAREFOOTED. Even the work place some employees adopt this custom.

*** Single use plastic is being replaced with items such as: wood silverware, reusable mesh bags, etc.. You can even bring your own reusable containers to the deli counter for your purchase. New Zealand is a very clean country, I rarely noticed roadside litter.

***AND BEST OF ALL, I LOVE their REAL FRUIT Ice Cream. You choose your fruit and they blend it with creamy vanilla ice cream right in front of you. My favorite flavor is Mixed-Berries, in season.  It is truly DELECTABLE and maybe HEALTHY too?

I LOVED MY FIVE MONTHS DISCOVERING NEW ZEALAND!

                Johanne, joyful traveller