Goa in My Dreams

 

The Lost White-haired Ponytailed Tribe

When the name Goa comes up, people have either never heard of it or they have visions of a lost era. A time and place where Peace and Love prevailed.

In the late 1960s early ’70s, there was a global flow of nomadic youth that wandered the planet searching for a place of their dreams. A place where they could fit in, far away from their hometown, their high schools and their parent’s expectations.

It was a time long before TripAdvisor, and the information highway consisted of rumors passed up and down the hippie trail. Stories about gatherings of their people on tropical beaches and remote mountain retreats. It was Goa that became the golden destination. From the UK, Australia and beyond, they arrived on buses and trains and whatever else was moving. They followed “the flow” and it lead them here to the dawning of a new age.

They we drawn by the beaches and the climate, and they were intoxicated by the drum circles and the glowing chillums. Tribal dancing and tantric yoga were on the menu and many exotic faiths and customs were embraced. They chanted under the Aquarian moon, and the Arabian Sea whispered along in sweet harmony. India was THE PLACE to be, it became the prefect backdrop for an alternative movement.

Of course, with all this youthful exuberance, the inevitable occurred: offspring.  Toddlers, blond haired and naked, who frolicked in the sand together. They were blessed with names such as: Anjuna, India, Ganesh & Pavatti. I wonder how their lives unfolded?

George Harrison and his mates came to study sitar under the tutelage of master Ravi Shankar. Its mystical sound was introduced to the fanbase with the recording of  Within You With Out You* and other songs. Rock music helped define “the flow”, pop stars and celebrities arrived for the photo-op and the party.

As the decade waned, the tribe slowly began to drift away. A few hard core stayed behind to live out their dharma, finding their guru or becoming sadhus themselves. But the majority found their way back to a certain reality and a day job. Many became estate agents, financial planners and the like.  Bought a house in the burbs and raised a family.

Today, if you visit Goa, you will see a new sub-cult emerging. Those with the white-haired ponytails. Now at the age of retirement, they have returned to the beaches to spend winter months in the sunshine and to gaze over the horizon of the youth. They don’t talk much anymore.  

But their drums are collecting dust on the shelf and the last chillum has been passed.  In their place are karaoke machines and a slow gin and tonic. Today, Elton John and Dusty Springfield form the soundtrack.  And no more rusty bus trips, just hop a direct overnight flight from Manchester and you will be walking the beach before breakfast.

Soon, the bygone magic will just be in stories over lunch. Age is getting the better of the tribe and there is no Gen. Next.  The Goan lifestyle of 50 years ago is just a fading memory; it just doesn’t track with the Instagram crowd. It’s sad to report that the WHP tribe is slowly melting into the sunset.

These days, the region is a holiday destination for young, newly affluent Indian families. They fly in from the major cities, spend a week or so and take it all in. What does remain however is the chilled vibe. It is still a beach community and as such,  social norms are greatly relaxed (particularly for India).

BTW, if you should happen to come looking for your tribe, I can not assure you that you will find them here. You will, however, have a memorable time in Goa !

*Lyrics from Within You, Without You:

“We were talking about the love we all could share
When we find it, to try our best to hold it there.”

Om Shanti

India

Shocked, Overwhelmed, Amazed, Delighted, and Embraced

As you step off the plane into India, you quickly realize that this will be an adventure like none other. You are about to be swept away by the world’s most populated country, a sub continent that is awash with traditions and cultures like nowhere else. Best to leave your western perceptions of how the world should be in the luggage rack; you are about to witness how the world really is.

 

India is certainly not for the faint of heart, however it will transform you if you let it.

 

So far, we have found ourselves; Shocked, Overwhelmed, Amazed, Delighted, and Embraced. And that was just in the shuttle from the airport!

It is not possible to be just a tourist here; participation is mandatory. You will be drawn in by the constant flow, the movement, the noise. And mostly by the people, their unabashed curiosity, their warmth and their abundant smiles.

Shocked:

YouTube videos cannot begin to capture the despair and poverty that floods out from the side streets. It is profound and profane, the conditions are unfathomable and yet somehow life goes on. 

It is so far outside our comfort zone, however this is what the world looks like for 1.4 billion people (17.8% of the global population). 

It is truly shocking how polluted the air is; for us it is unlivable. Very tragic.

Overwhelmed:

OMG this is one noisy place!! The TRAFFIC is insane. Sometimes I find myself just standing at an intersection hypnotized by the moving chaos. Scooters, cars, cement trucks, goats, cows, bicycles, tuk tuks and pedestrians all within millimeters of each other and all moving in a myriad of directions. How is this even possible? Why do we never see multi vehicle pileups or even a fender bender? Maybe the unending use of the horn IS the solution?

 

 

 

Fasten your seat belt and play video:

(speakers on)

Amazed:

We are amazed at how Indian people are able make this all work. With  great ingenuity and determination, they seem to carve out a tiny space and earn a livelihood. There are so many small marvels when you look closely. A man sitting on the sidewalk fixing sandals with a bit of glue and some polish, using his feet as his vise. A two-chair barber shop in a 6 by 10 foot stall.  And the tuk tuk drivers that keep it all in motion, six passengers at a time.

 

DSC00195

 

Delighted:

This is a place where life is celebrated with a passion. The other night, we watched a very elaborate banquet come to life in our common area. The set up took dozens of workers two days of scurrying around. We were expecting a festival of major significance, dancing, music, etc. A hundred or so people in splendid attire arrived to dine in the finest of style and within just 3 hours it was all over. By 11 PM, things were mostly torn down as if nothing had happened.

And of course the taste and colour of a traditional Indian meal leaves one speechless with delight.

Embraced:

We find the smiles that greet us where ever we go so refreshing and of course they get passed along as we move about. It is also very common for people to come up to us and request a selfie as if we were pops stars or something. Most often the just one selfie evolves into a family portrait with us in the midst of many generations. Always makes us chuckle.

 

 

If you have ever contemplated a journey to this magical land, we would encourage you to take the plunge.

 the joyful travellers       

Wanderlust

 

We were wanderlust, it sparkled in our eyes. 

We were young, adventurous and rather naïve, a potentially risky mix.

Our paths converged 5 decades ago somewhere in eastern Turkey. Our companionship was sealed on the spot and we headed off down the road, eastward into the sunrise.

We strode wide-eyed over backroads and along goat trails, through villages and towns whose names we couldn’t pronounce.

To where? Anywhere as long as it was exciting and new. 

By bus, by rail and by any possible mode that moved us along. Was there a goal? 

It was as if the journey itself was the goal -the wanderlust.

We came across others like us on “the road”. A rambling tribe of sorts, vagabonds, scouts.

Spreading out across the globe, wanderlust flowed from their backpacks.

Tehran in ’71 glimmered like gold in the desert, Herat was dusty and wild. 

In Peshawar, it seemed like there was a marishnacoft slung over every shoulder.

A road sign at the Khyber Pass proclaimed a travellers’ alert,  we snickered and kept our heads down. 

What did we know? (There was no such thing as tripadvisor).

We scratched our way over a mountain pass of 15,000 feet or more. The air was as thin as silk, our feet were sore and blistered. We were warned of wild dogs roaming at night.

Doug, a fellow vagabond with Indian soldiers.

 

On the long, rocky trail we followed sadhus with bare feet up to an ancient, holy cave. There were no answers to be found there.

In Srinagar we lounged about on a house boat like rajas from a distant land. We played bridge in the afternoon.

In Colombo we had to turn around, we had literally run out of road. This magical journey we were on was winding down but for each of us there would be many more to come.

It is 52 years on, and our paths cross again. We sit here today over lunch with our wives and toast to a distant lifetime that we once shared. Good times we had, fond memories we created.

 

Our faces have changed and our strides aren’t as bold. 

But I still recognize that sparkle in your eyes !!

Here’s to: vagabonds, open roads and life long friendships.

 

                                                                                                           photos by Neil

Maravilhoso Madeira


August, 2022

Maravilhoso Madeira

To many people, the word “Madeira” evokes a image of  sweet, rich wine, however I suspect very few people could point to this tiny speck on a map.

It is an enchanting place; an island in the Atlantic Ocean. Owned by Portugal, yet closer to Casablanca than Lisbon.

We were lucky enough to have spent 6 weeks exploring the beauty of the island in the summer of 2022.

QUICK FACTS

  • first settled in 1420 in the age of discovery, by Portuguese sailors driven off course
  •  32 N. -16 E., the same parallel as Bermuda
  • 742 km sq. in area and just 55 km at its widest point
  • a population of 210,000 with the main city of Funchal
  • it’s #1 export is bananas 
  • it’s most famous citizen – soccer legend Cristiano Ronaldo (sharing the same birthday as the author)
  • subtropical climate with an annual average temperature of 23 C. , 14 to 20 C. in the winter legend

Dramatic Geography

Rising up 6 Km from the ocean floor, your first impression of Madeira is how rugged it is. It’s a mystical landscape where thousands of ancient black ridges tumble out in every direction. The deep greens of the tropical vegetation accentuate the drama.

Lush Vegetation and Botanical Gardens

Stunning parks and gardens are abundant, where the flora is rich and colourful.

One our favourite outings was a visit to the Monte Palace Botanical Gardens.  Cradled in a 70,000 sq. meter natural amphitheater, it is rated as one of the top gardens in the world. So inviting and peaceful. 

Levada de Madeira

Madeira is blessed with a resource that many regions of the world are desperate for: WATER and lot’s of it!

The water originates in springs that flow out from the high peaks in the north. From there, it is delivered by gravity to the terraces in the south where the banana plants thrive. 

The levadas are a very elaborate system of aqueducts that dates back to the 15th century and are very unique to Madeira. They physically tie communities together and are also a symbol of spirit and expression.

The system is a network of over 3,000 kms. of trenches and tunnels that crisscross the hillsides and tumble down into the steep ravines. The manual labour that was required is hard to comprehend.

As well as providing a life line to the residents, the levadas  are a wonderful network of pathways. The gradual sloped, mostly paved sidewalks allow visitors to glimpse deep into the heart and soul of the community. They also provide some very extreme hiking for those so inclined (sic).

Getting Here

There are direct flights to Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport from Lisbon, Paris and the UK.

The island offers accommodation from the modest to the fabulous.

There are excellent restaurants featuring many local dishes. Of course this being Portugal, you will never be more than a few steps away from a cafe!  

If you are looking for a one of a kind get away, we can highly recommend a stop on Madeira.

 

 

 

the  joyful travellers

Doug and Johanne

To Paris and Back

 

To Paris and Back, Summer 2021  

 We recently completed a wonderful summer road trip from the bottom of Portugal up to Paris and back.

                                                              

  In 3 months, with vaccination passports in hand, we:

  • covered over 6,200 Km by car & train, including both Spain & Portugal  from top to bottom
  • completed 5 fabulous house sits in 3 countries
  • visited with Johanne’s sister and her partner
  • explored many off-the-beaten path towns and villages
  • attended a local Jazz and Blues Festival in France
  • found where the name “Montreal” orgininated  Hint: (the Maquis de Montreal  still lives in Dordgone.)

Follow us on our journey by clicking on the link:

 Our Summer Vacation

 Enjoy our little excursion, safe travels.

joyful travellers     

 

Portugual-with Longing in it’s Heart

 

 

Saudade: “A yearning and hopefulness towards something over which one has no control.”

 

File: Almeida Júnior - Saudade (Longing) - Google Art Project.jpg

                      by Almeida Junior

                        Brazil 1850- 1899

 

 

 

Saudade

I love everything that was

Everything that is no longer

The pain that no longer hurts me

The ancient and erroneous faith

The yesterday that the pain left

What left joy

Just because it went and flew

And today is another day.

                                          ( Fernando Pessoa)

When Johanne and I arrived in the Algarve in early September we were both overcome by an emotion that we could not properly describe. We could not find the words. It was almost tangible but rather foreign to us. The best we could come up with was Bitter/Sweet.

Bitter because our 4 years of global trotting had come to a screeching halt, precipitated by this all-encompassing pandemic. Our flights had been cancelled!

Sweet because we had touched down in a country that is one of the most welcoming in the world. Portugal generously offers a way of life that is difficult to surpass anywhere else. *

Little did we know the emptiness that we were feeling had a name. It is an emotion that is very alive in the soul of this country and its people. Saudade lives throughout Portugal’s history and culture. It is a commonly used word and is part of the Portuguese daily language.  It is a feeling deeply connected to the Portuguese soul. It is found in its poetry and is a popular theme in Fado- the Portuguese music style.

Portugal is a tiny nation laying at the edge of the vast Atlantic.  It is from these shores that families waved goodbye to fearless maritime adventurers. Men who sailed off the end of the earth with little hope of ever being reunited. No wonder yearning and loss became ingrained in the soul of this nation.

The word Saudade might be rooted in the Latin solitas, it may also be Arabic in origin. In any case, it is not easily translated: melancholy, yearning, incompleteness come close. It is nostalgic and romantic.

Today, I know that most of us are having a challenge with emotions similar to Saudade. We are in a time where we have had to make huge adjustments to deal with issues that are well beyond our control. We are longing for a time that may not come back to us anytime soon, if at all.  Staring off into uncertainty.

Discovering the word for this emotion, defining it, and taking it into our vocabulary has made it much easier for us to accept and appreciate where we are and what we are coping with. It seems that the Portuguese have a lesson for us.  “And today is another day.”

 *Here is a wonderful article about why Portugal is such an ideal place to touch down:  Why Portugal

I would love to hear if  Saudade has been part of your experience:

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